According to the guide-book writer, Rick Steves, the term comes from a prehistoric cave that a Mr. Magnon discovered in 1870. Hence: "Mr. Magnon's hole."The Grotte we explored, one of dozens in the area, was indeed a hole in the wall, a locked gate keeping unescorted visitors from coming in. It is truly amazing to realize that the beautiful drawings we saw of horses, rhinoceroses, and wooly mammoths were created around 13,000 years ago. That's a hefty ten thousand years before the pyramids!
Now let us tell you about dinner. Where to begin...
Our hosts made reservations at a restaurant where there is only one meal. You go; you eat what they serve. It is called La Truffiere. It is a farmhouse up in the hills. It was fab.u.lous!
We drove off the main road up a dirt road. Then left the dirt road for a small drive. Just as we chased 4 goats off the road, we entered the driveway. There was the owner of the goats waiting for them to come home. He was also our host. Welcome!
Inside, the decor is best described as 'hodge-podge.' Very eclectic bohemian.A cucko-cucko clock, a Japanese lantern, the poster of Obama with 'HOPE,' and six tables. There were two parties. Us and a party of four who were already beginning their meal. We had a table for two with a six-candle candelabra. I know...a little much for a table for two but it was cold and we needed the heat in addition to the fire in the fireplace.
The meal began with a aperitif of some white wine. Later we asked our B&B hosts what the aperitif was. They said, "We don't know. Just something he makes!"
We were thrilled when the first course turned out to be a hot soup: chicken base turned creamy with egg whites and flavored with garlic and topped with floating islands of bread. That was followed by a delicious pate de canard served with a small glass of sweet white wine. Next came the salad. What a feast for the eyes: lettuce, finely diced tomatos and strawberries, white aspragus, olives, chopped egg, sliced parmesan cheese, olives and violet flowers. Gorgeous.
The main course was duck. Surprise! But what a duck! A grilled breast of duck with grilled veggies and wedges of potato. We asked about the potatoes: coated in duck fat, brushed heavily with garlic and slow roasted. This course was served with a 1/2 carafe of red wine.
The cheese course was a chevre made up the hill served with toast and small red pepper seeds.
Dessert was creme brulee and coffee. For anyone familiar with prices here, the cost was a pittance...60 euro for two!
Two and half hours later we were back at the Inn. What a glorious evening.
